The garden is almost a year old. The right-hand ‘cool blues’ border was planted up almost a year ago. These plants have rooted well over winter and are now showing vigorous, healthy growth. It looks like a proper herbaceous border! Almost. A few gaps at the front, but not many. These can be filled in time with low-growing plants that suit the colour scheme of whites and blues. Amazingly, I didn’t lose a single plant over winter, of those planted in this border.
The clump of Dianthus in the background turned out to be pink, not white, so that is ear-marked for a move to the ‘hot’ side!
I’m planning to re-paint the fence a more natural pale colour (Harvest Gold) to match the new fence on the other side. This will set the colour of the border off far better than the horrible dark stain on the panels now (apologies to anyone who likes that colour for their fences). The Nordman fir is not a part of the plan, and is in a pot at the back until I’ve decided where (if) to plant it.
Hosta ‘Big Daddy’ is huge in the background, but not at its full size yet for the year. It is just starting to flower. Campanula persicifolia has formed a nice clump in its allotted space. It has around ten flower spikes on it, with many more to come. The bells are huge, and perfectly blue. The Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’ is picking up pace and putting on some nice, new growth. Bit worried about the eventual size of these, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’ has just formed some nice buds, and one flower escaped today (not shown).
This is a dwarf (low-growing) Tradescantia with amazing acid green foliage and bright blue flowers. The contrast is fantastic, and it works well in the blue border.
The hardy geraniums are all looking amazing, and I seem to have quite a collection. Geranium magnificum ‘Rosemoor’ has been a huge surprise (literally). It’s a big one, as the name suggests, and here it is.
And here’s a selection of the other hardy geraniums in both borders, so far.
The first David Austin roses are budding and flowering. The first variety of the year to flower, three days ago, was Princess Anne (why I bought this rose I don’t know, as I don’t love pink and I certainly have no affinity with Princess Anne!). Here she is:
As it has consistently shown for the last two years, David Austin’s The Lady of Shallot is enthusiastically lush and full of buds in early May. It is the tallest plant in the rose bed, by about a foot, and full of stems, leaf and buds. She has flowered very closely on the heels of Princess Anne.
Despite feeding the roses, and giving them all a light prune in March, they haven’t looked especially healthy so far this year (excluding ‘Lady of Shallot’, which always looks healthy, regardless). I will need to keep up the feeding, and mulch the whole raised bed soon with rotted manure. Rose ‘Blue Moon’ is looking especially ill, and I don’t know why. The roses are all now affected by greenfly, some worse than others, and a third have black spot. They were sprayed once with Rose Clear in April, but now need a repeat spraying. I’ll keep up the spraying of Rose Clear every two weeks from now on. I’m picking off the leaves affected by black spot and putting them in the brown bin (I should burn them – I have no incinerator).
I’ve decided that – in the spirit of the Chelsea Flower Show – the ‘Lady of Shallot’ rose will be my rose of the decade! I am so impressed with its vigour and repeat flowering, it’s almost evergreen nature and strong, climber-like habit. Everyone should grow one of these roses. I recommend it all the time to our customers at work, as you can be a complete beginner or a rose aficionado, and you’ll still find this rose has endless merits and is unbelievably trouble-free to grow. It’s a rose to restore your faith in roses (we all know how frustrating and disheartening they can be to grow).
Sooooo, in a bid to make this patch of ground look remotely like an actual garden, the rose arch becomes the next step in construction. The idea being that it will help develop some semblance of design and order to the garden, and it will also dictate how wide the brick path will eventually be, and where we need to begin construction of the next border.
So, the arch went up. After this, it was easy enough to plan out the left-hand border and dig out the turf (well, I say easy…). The result of this looks slightly less uninspiring than the previous image. You can see how much of a difference a structure makes to a garden; it brings areas together and helps bring a sense of design into the garden.
The turf that remains as part of the full garden design is being treated for weeds and moss, and fed regularly. As a result, it has greened up nicely. It is a far cry from the head-high meadow grass I found when I moved in.
As we dug the left-hand border out, and laid down the wooden edging, we realised the soil levels were bizarrely at odds with each other. The right-hand bed – which was stripped of turf, dug out, had two tons of topsoil added, was planted up, and then had a ton of bark chips added as weed control, all last year – was in some places a foot higher than the soil level in the left-hand border. Once the wooden edging was down, this became hilariously clear. The solution is simple – more topsoil. Approximately two tons of topsoil! This has to be added before plants can go in, obviously. The turf was trimmed, so all that remains of grass in this section is a pathway. This pathway will eventually become a reclaimed brick path with a cottage garden feel.
To pass the time, and ease frustration on my part, I have spent some time planning where all of the plants will go in this border. Not as much of an easy task, partly because I seem to have a penchant for dark-coloured foliage and now have a collection of plants with dark red and black foliage, which needs to be spaced well and combined well to avoid a crazy mass of black and red shrubs in the border. This took much longer than expected, and I’m still not sure I’ve got it right (I usually end up transplanting plants around after the event, as I re-think where something might look much better once mature). To date, the plants have been set out in a semi-permanent way, and we now await the delivery of four tons of topsoil (half will go to fill the vegetable raised beds).
Here is the plant list for the left-hand border.
Acer palmatum ‘Oshio Beni’
Crocosmia ‘Walberton Yellow’
Solidago ‘Goldenmosa’ (Golden Rod)
Physocarpus opulifolias ‘Dart’s Gold’
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’
Physocarpus ‘Little Devil’
Knifophia ‘Tetbury Torch’
Physocarpus opfulifolius ‘Lady in Red’
Epatorium rugosum ‘Chocolate’
Cotinus Royal Purple’
Heuchera ‘Peach Flambe’
Heuchera ‘Midnight Bayou’
Geranim pratense ‘Midnight Reiter’
Diantus sunflor ‘Paseo’
Polyanthus ‘Fire Dragon’
Polyanthus ‘Stella Champagne’
Hydrangea mops lacecap
Iris ‘Langport Wren’
Geum ‘Lady Stratheden’
Coprosma ‘Pacific Midnight’
Viola ‘Honey Bee’
Crocosmia x crocosmiflora ‘Emily McKenzie’
Echinacea ‘Hot Lava’
Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’
Paeonia officinalis ‘Rubra Plena’
Corylus maxima purpurea
Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’
Geranium sanguineum ‘Elka’
Penstemon ‘Dark Towers’
Geranium ‘Bertie Crug’
As will hopefully be clear, this side has been designed to introduce gradients of bright colours – from yellows, oranges, reds, blending into pinks. I am still unsure about the pinks (not a ‘pink’ person).
So, on the morning of the topsoil delivery, this is what we started with:
A few hours later, the bed was raised to the same level as the right-hand bed. Corrr, look at that lovely soil. Gorgeous stuff.
It took a few more hours to get all of the plants put into the ground. My back wasn’t amused. Here we have the completed herbaceous border. Yes, again it looks quite bare and relatively uninspiring, but give it time. Spaces between plants is a good thing; plants needs space to spread and merge into their neighbours. Anyway, tada!
With a 200ft garden, I decided I had space to cut it up into four segments. Each segment would perform a different function. My choices for these sections was heavily dictated by the bizarre levels present in this garden. Around a third of the way up the garden, there is an alarming natural terrace where the terrain slopes rapidly upwards by about two feet, then levels out, then slopes upward again after 40 feet or so. I decided that this central, flat area was best left as the main lawn. (Lawn spaces should ideally be as flat as possible, with few lumps and bumps.) Whilst part of my aim with this new garden was to make the most of all the space available to grow fruit, veg or low-maintenance plants, I also wanted a decent patch of lawn. If you have young children, the reason for this will be obvious. I, however, have a German Shepherd. Dogs need a bit of lawn to run about on and follow the call of nature! The 40 ft x 25 ft square of level lawn is now dubbed Flame’s Lawn, after my dog.
For the first section, I wanted impact. I wanted maturity, lushness, colour and a sense of formality. How nice to walk into a garden and be instantly assaulted by colour and scent, and a strong impression of design. I wanted to create the illusion of this first section being the garden in its entirety. A neat trick, in my opinion, is to present a full garden of colourful herbaceous borders on either side of a formal path, with a screen of mature shrubs at its end and a rose arch which promises the potential of more beyond.
The screen of shrubs at the end of this section is very important. Originally, I had planned for some formal trellis panels, installed as a screen, but whilst attractive this would be expensive. Instead, I opted for larger evergreens and year-round interest shrubs as partial obstructions to the views of the larger garden beyond. I chose Viburnum x carlcephalum, Ceanothus ‘Silver Surprise’ (Californian lilac), Cytisus scoparius (yellow broom), Coprosma ‘Pacific Sunset’ and Cornus alba ‘Kesselringii’ (a dogwood with impressively dark winter stems). On one side of the trellised rose arch that intersects this screen would be a white climbing rose (undecided on cultivar yet), and on the other side I wanted to grow one of the more attractive varieties of honeysuckle, so I opted for Lonicera henryi and another evergreen climber, Trachleospermum jasminoides variegata (star jasmine). All of these plants perform more than one function – that is, they are flowering and/or evergreen and/or have winter interest and/or have high scent value. I’m a firm believer in plants working for their keep.
These two formal herbaceous beds on either side of the first section of path measure around 10 ft wide by 25 ft in length. One border is slightly shorter to accommodate an area of paving slabs on which stands the new shed. That kind of space demands a lot of plants. One of the few advantages of working in horticultural retail is the bargains. Oh, so many bargains. As a result, I’ve been collecting plants for some time now. At one stage, the patio looked like a plant nursery. Now, it’s time to put these plants in the ground.
I decided on graduations of flower and leaf colour. Putting that into practice has been less easy than typing it, as I already had the majority of the plants before making that decision! The right-hand bed was the first to be dug out. We used a turf stripper to slice off a thick layer of turf, and over a ton of topsoil was dug into the already very loamy soil we found lurking under the turf. A great start. I sorted the plants into colour. On the right-hand side, as you walk down the path, I wanted graduations of blues, purples and whites. Here’s the bed in early Spring (the rest of the garden is untouched), and here’s the full plant list for the right-hand herbaceous bed.
Looks pretty uninspiring, huh?
Mentha (common mint)
Melissa officinalis (Lemon Balm)
Hosta ‘Wedgewood Blue’
Thyme x citridoris ‘Aureus’
Lilium longiflorum (Easter Lilly; Tree Lily)
Geranium somobor ‘Mourning Widow’
Pulmonaria ‘Sissinghurst White’
Pieris japonica ‘Flaming Silver’
Hesperis matronalis var. albiflora (sweet rocket)
Delphinium ‘King Arthur’
Aquilega ‘Blue Barlow’
Salvia nemorosa ‘Ostfriesland’ x 2
Acanthus spinosus (Bear’s Breeches)
Carex ‘Ice Dance’ x 3
Cornus alba elegantissima x 2
Penstemon ‘Electric Blue’
Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’
Alcaea (Hollyhock) – White
Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Nivalis’
Philadelphus ‘Belle Etoile’
Dianthus ‘Grenadin White’
Lupinus ‘Gallery White’
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’
Pulmonaria longifolia ‘Diane Clare’
Aquilega ‘Black Barlow’
Geranium ‘Hocus Pocus’
Cornus alba elegantissima
Philadelphus maculatus ‘Sweet Clare’
They are mostly blues and whites, with some variations on purples (lilacs and deeper purples). Once these plants have grown and spread a little, and merged slightly into each other, it should create a natural and pleasing effect using colour and texture, and varying heights in the border.
After the grass had been mowed on shorter and shorter settings, and the dust had settled, it was time to start putting plans into action. After first looking around the garden, it was obvious (to some degree) what needed to happen.
Speaking as someone who hasn’t had much formal training in garden design, I’m at least aware that one of the fundamentals of garden design is to break up any large area into smaller, manageable sections, and to avoid creating a garden that is entirely visible from any one line of sight. When dealing with a garden like mine, which is very long and not especially wide, the best course of action is to cut it into sections, or areas.
This is the plan. So, to decide on how many sections, where each area began and ended, and what function each section would provide. Every garden should have function and purpose, even if that purpose is simply to be a wild flower meadow. An urban garden needs to be planned if it is to work well and make the most use of the space available.
When planning a garden, it should be measured out in length and width, and the angles of the terrain taken into account. Next up is aspect – which direction is North and South? To some extent, this will dictate what you can and can’t grow in a garden. Then, soil type; use a PH soil kit to test the PH of your soil. Again, this will very much dictate what plants will and will not grow. After taking into account these things, and any obstructions growing or present in and around your garden, a garden plan can be formulated. It doesn’t have to be a formal design, but anything written down is easier to adhere to and follow step-by-step.
I’m lucky. My new garden is South-West facing, with no nearby trees or buildings to obscure light, spread unwanted seeds or interfere with the growth of plants in my garden. So, the first step was to replace the cobbled-together mix of different fencing that lined one side of the garden (my boundary fence) when I moved in. This wasn’t cheap. I opted for lap panels, which are longer-lasting and more robust, with concrete gravel boards and posts. The length of the garden thirty panels! Here’s the fencing going in. It took a team of two people three days to build.
I don’t relish the idea of using concrete anywhere, so this wasn’t ideal. More importantly, this kind of fencing is partially responsible for the huge and worrying decline in British hedgehog numbers. They can’t move from garden to garden during their nightly forage for food, and so they now really struggle to survive in urban areas. This is to all gardeners’ detriment as well as the poor hogs; we rely on these small, nocturnal mammals to control pests such as slugs and snails, so creating such barriers to their vital movements is a very bad thing for the health of our gardens. In time, I will be looking to replace the concrete gravel boards with something sturdy but less of an obstacle to creatures trying to move from one garden to the next. Any ideas welcome!