It is now June, and other than some unwelcome slugs and snails munching away on the Hostas, Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’ and the Delphiniums, the ‘cool’side of the herbaceous borders is doing well – as seen here.
I have stuck to my no dig policy and have only had to spend an hour or so hand weeding out what turned out to be mostly ranunculus and a few other pesky unwelcomes. The bark mulch has done a great job at keeping weeds down on this side, which reassures me about having mulched the other side this year.
I am leaving the top section of the garden to grow wild for a while. The grass has grown rapidly and there are some lovely wild flowers coming up. I have noticed that birds are far more likely to spend time up in the long grass pecking for worms and insects than they have been previously. I’ve also left out a large saucer of water in the veg section for birds to drink from as, despite rain, it is pretty parched around here.
It’s been a while. Having embarked on a degree, I thought the garden might become fully neglected. Instead, it has only become partially neglected… June/July 2015 saw the ‘hot’ border grow to this epic magnitude.
Impressive? I felt it was worth the hard work to get it to that point. It had grown incredibly full (this was late summer, when all of the ‘jewel’ colours in the garden are at their peak). In the foreground, the heuchera and sedum compete for darkest leaf award, the sedum winning out with its nicely contrasted dark pink flower. Behind it are a dark pink monarda, Burgundy Ice rose, cannas, dark leafed dahlias and a stunning pink salvia. Behind them are the yellows and some oranges. Scorching.
Below is an image of (mostly) both sides of the first section of the garden after one full year’s growth. It is clear from this image how one side has been planted with cool colours and the other with hot colours, and how well it works. Flame the German Shepherd is enjoying the garden too (she likes to chase the buzzy things). You can also see pink sedums, pink Japanese anemones and some antique pink sweet peas in this image.
You can see that the newly laid brick path we put in last year has wintered, weathered, cracked in places, become overgrown with moss and a few weeds, and generally looks like it has been there for years. That was the idea!
After overwintering and dying back – as herbaceous borders do – I spent a bit of time on it in February, pulling out weeds and throwing on a thick layer of bark mulch to try to control them this year. I’m going fully ‘no dig’ in 2016 so it is all hand pulling of weeds and keeping on top of them, whilst spending as little time as possible doing it as I simply don’t have a lot of time to devote to this section for the next couple of years while I complete my degree.
Here is the border newly mulched and cleared, ready for all new growth. Since this image was taken (below) the hot border has really grown thanks to the lovely warm weather we’ve had in early May in the UK, coupled with the odd torrential downpour!
All cut back and looking bare! This was taken at the end of February 2016. What a difference a few months of cold weather makes. Hopefully, it will be back to lush, vibrancy in no time. I will update.
Here’s a quick update of the growth and development of the two herbaceous beds on either side of the main path.
Right-hand bed, containing all the cool colours. As can be seen, there is a lot of growth.
And the left-hand bed, containing all the hot colours.
The hot border was only planted at the beginning of April, yet is already starting to fill out. I admit to leaving quite a lot of gaps and spaces around each plant. I’ve been both criticised and applauded for this. One friend admired my constraint (her garden is full of plants and each new plant gets shoehorned into the tiniest gaps imaginable). It is entirely deliberate. I’ve planted up many gardens in the past (my own and others), often without leaving space for each plant to grow to its fullest potential, and have regretted it within one to two years. Plan them too close together, and you both limit the space for larger shrubs to expand to their natural and glorious size, and you choke out light for the plants next to them to thrive.
I’ve lost too many smaller plants this way; I’ve found myself wandering around the garden a year after planting, remembering specimens that used to be in the border here and there but which have disappeared, then realising they’ve been reduced to a small space deep beneath a shrub’s lower branches. I’ve found too many much-loved and treasured perennials reduced to one pathetic, weedy stem, desperately searching out the light and failing, and I’ve lost quite a few plants this way. It is now my rule #1 when planting – always take into account the final size of a plant, when you put them in, and allow them a decent growing area accordingly.
Having said all of that, I still make the same mistake now and then. Just look at the Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’ in the first image. That plant grows! I’ve put a number of smaller shrubs around it, some of which will have to be monitored to ensure they don’t become overshadowed, quite literally. I’ve also put a Picea pungens ‘Hoopsii’ right next to it, within around two feet. That’s going to have to come out and move at some point. Moving mature shrubs is never a good thing. Planning is everything.
The garden is almost a year old. The right-hand ‘cool blues’ border was planted up almost a year ago. These plants have rooted well over winter and are now showing vigorous, healthy growth. It looks like a proper herbaceous border! Almost. A few gaps at the front, but not many. These can be filled in time with low-growing plants that suit the colour scheme of whites and blues. Amazingly, I didn’t lose a single plant over winter, of those planted in this border.
The clump of Dianthus in the background turned out to be pink, not white, so that is ear-marked for a move to the ‘hot’ side!
I’m planning to re-paint the fence a more natural pale colour (Harvest Gold) to match the new fence on the other side. This will set the colour of the border off far better than the horrible dark stain on the panels now (apologies to anyone who likes that colour for their fences). The Nordman fir is not a part of the plan, and is in a pot at the back until I’ve decided where (if) to plant it.
Hosta ‘Big Daddy’ is huge in the background, but not at its full size yet for the year. It is just starting to flower. Campanula persicifolia has formed a nice clump in its allotted space. It has around ten flower spikes on it, with many more to come. The bells are huge, and perfectly blue. The Cornus alternifolia ‘Argentea’ is picking up pace and putting on some nice, new growth. Bit worried about the eventual size of these, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’ has just formed some nice buds, and one flower escaped today (not shown).
This is a dwarf (low-growing) Tradescantia with amazing acid green foliage and bright blue flowers. The contrast is fantastic, and it works well in the blue border.
The hardy geraniums are all looking amazing, and I seem to have quite a collection. Geranium magnificum ‘Rosemoor’ has been a huge surprise (literally). It’s a big one, as the name suggests, and here it is.
And here’s a selection of the other hardy geraniums in both borders, so far.
The first David Austin roses are budding and flowering. The first variety of the year to flower, three days ago, was Princess Anne (why I bought this rose I don’t know, as I don’t love pink and I certainly have no affinity with Princess Anne!). Here she is:
As it has consistently shown for the last two years, David Austin’s The Lady of Shallot is enthusiastically lush and full of buds in early May. It is the tallest plant in the rose bed, by about a foot, and full of stems, leaf and buds. She has flowered very closely on the heels of Princess Anne.
Despite feeding the roses, and giving them all a light prune in March, they haven’t looked especially healthy so far this year (excluding ‘Lady of Shallot’, which always looks healthy, regardless). I will need to keep up the feeding, and mulch the whole raised bed soon with rotted manure. Rose ‘Blue Moon’ is looking especially ill, and I don’t know why. The roses are all now affected by greenfly, some worse than others, and a third have black spot. They were sprayed once with Rose Clear in April, but now need a repeat spraying. I’ll keep up the spraying of Rose Clear every two weeks from now on. I’m picking off the leaves affected by black spot and putting them in the brown bin (I should burn them – I have no incinerator).
I’ve decided that – in the spirit of the Chelsea Flower Show – the ‘Lady of Shallot’ rose will be my rose of the decade! I am so impressed with its vigour and repeat flowering, it’s almost evergreen nature and strong, climber-like habit. Everyone should grow one of these roses. I recommend it all the time to our customers at work, as you can be a complete beginner or a rose aficionado, and you’ll still find this rose has endless merits and is unbelievably trouble-free to grow. It’s a rose to restore your faith in roses (we all know how frustrating and disheartening they can be to grow).
Sooooo, in a bid to make this patch of ground look remotely like an actual garden, the rose arch becomes the next step in construction. The idea being that it will help develop some semblance of design and order to the garden, and it will also dictate how wide the brick path will eventually be, and where we need to begin construction of the next border.
So, the arch went up. After this, it was easy enough to plan out the left-hand border and dig out the turf (well, I say easy…). The result of this looks slightly less uninspiring than the previous image. You can see how much of a difference a structure makes to a garden; it brings areas together and helps bring a sense of design into the garden.
The turf that remains as part of the full garden design is being treated for weeds and moss, and fed regularly. As a result, it has greened up nicely. It is a far cry from the head-high meadow grass I found when I moved in.
As we dug the left-hand border out, and laid down the wooden edging, we realised the soil levels were bizarrely at odds with each other. The right-hand bed – which was stripped of turf, dug out, had two tons of topsoil added, was planted up, and then had a ton of bark chips added as weed control, all last year – was in some places a foot higher than the soil level in the left-hand border. Once the wooden edging was down, this became hilariously clear. The solution is simple – more topsoil. Approximately two tons of topsoil! This has to be added before plants can go in, obviously. The turf was trimmed, so all that remains of grass in this section is a pathway. This pathway will eventually become a reclaimed brick path with a cottage garden feel.
To pass the time, and ease frustration on my part, I have spent some time planning where all of the plants will go in this border. Not as much of an easy task, partly because I seem to have a penchant for dark-coloured foliage and now have a collection of plants with dark red and black foliage, which needs to be spaced well and combined well to avoid a crazy mass of black and red shrubs in the border. This took much longer than expected, and I’m still not sure I’ve got it right (I usually end up transplanting plants around after the event, as I re-think where something might look much better once mature). To date, the plants have been set out in a semi-permanent way, and we now await the delivery of four tons of topsoil (half will go to fill the vegetable raised beds).
Here is the plant list for the left-hand border.
Acer palmatum ‘Oshio Beni’
Crocosmia ‘Walberton Yellow’
Solidago ‘Goldenmosa’ (Golden Rod)
Physocarpus opulifolias ‘Dart’s Gold’
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’
Physocarpus ‘Little Devil’
Knifophia ‘Tetbury Torch’
Physocarpus opfulifolius ‘Lady in Red’
Epatorium rugosum ‘Chocolate’
Cotinus Royal Purple’
Heuchera ‘Peach Flambe’
Heuchera ‘Midnight Bayou’
Geranim pratense ‘Midnight Reiter’
Diantus sunflor ‘Paseo’
Polyanthus ‘Fire Dragon’
Polyanthus ‘Stella Champagne’
Hydrangea mops lacecap
Iris ‘Langport Wren’
Geum ‘Lady Stratheden’
Coprosma ‘Pacific Midnight’
Viola ‘Honey Bee’
Crocosmia x crocosmiflora ‘Emily McKenzie’
Echinacea ‘Hot Lava’
Geum ‘Totally Tangerine’
Paeonia officinalis ‘Rubra Plena’
Corylus maxima purpurea
Sambucus nigra ‘Black Beauty’
Geranium sanguineum ‘Elka’
Penstemon ‘Dark Towers’
Geranium ‘Bertie Crug’
As will hopefully be clear, this side has been designed to introduce gradients of bright colours – from yellows, oranges, reds, blending into pinks. I am still unsure about the pinks (not a ‘pink’ person).
So, on the morning of the topsoil delivery, this is what we started with:
A few hours later, the bed was raised to the same level as the right-hand bed. Corrr, look at that lovely soil. Gorgeous stuff.
It took a few more hours to get all of the plants put into the ground. My back wasn’t amused. Here we have the completed herbaceous border. Yes, again it looks quite bare and relatively uninspiring, but give it time. Spaces between plants is a good thing; plants needs space to spread and merge into their neighbours. Anyway, tada!
With a 200ft garden, I decided I had space to cut it up into four segments. Each segment would perform a different function. My choices for these sections was heavily dictated by the bizarre levels present in this garden. Around a third of the way up the garden, there is an alarming natural terrace where the terrain slopes rapidly upwards by about two feet, then levels out, then slopes upward again after 40 feet or so. I decided that this central, flat area was best left as the main lawn. (Lawn spaces should ideally be as flat as possible, with few lumps and bumps.) Whilst part of my aim with this new garden was to make the most of all the space available to grow fruit, veg or low-maintenance plants, I also wanted a decent patch of lawn. If you have young children, the reason for this will be obvious. I, however, have a German Shepherd. Dogs need a bit of lawn to run about on and follow the call of nature! The 40 ft x 25 ft square of level lawn is now dubbed Flame’s Lawn, after my dog.
For the first section, I wanted impact. I wanted maturity, lushness, colour and a sense of formality. How nice to walk into a garden and be instantly assaulted by colour and scent, and a strong impression of design. I wanted to create the illusion of this first section being the garden in its entirety. A neat trick, in my opinion, is to present a full garden of colourful herbaceous borders on either side of a formal path, with a screen of mature shrubs at its end and a rose arch which promises the potential of more beyond.
The screen of shrubs at the end of this section is very important. Originally, I had planned for some formal trellis panels, installed as a screen, but whilst attractive this would be expensive. Instead, I opted for larger evergreens and year-round interest shrubs as partial obstructions to the views of the larger garden beyond. I chose Viburnum x carlcephalum, Ceanothus ‘Silver Surprise’ (Californian lilac), Cytisus scoparius (yellow broom), Coprosma ‘Pacific Sunset’ and Cornus alba ‘Kesselringii’ (a dogwood with impressively dark winter stems). On one side of the trellised rose arch that intersects this screen would be a white climbing rose (undecided on cultivar yet), and on the other side I wanted to grow one of the more attractive varieties of honeysuckle, so I opted for Lonicera henryi and another evergreen climber, Trachleospermum jasminoides variegata (star jasmine). All of these plants perform more than one function – that is, they are flowering and/or evergreen and/or have winter interest and/or have high scent value. I’m a firm believer in plants working for their keep.
These two formal herbaceous beds on either side of the first section of path measure around 10 ft wide by 25 ft in length. One border is slightly shorter to accommodate an area of paving slabs on which stands the new shed. That kind of space demands a lot of plants. One of the few advantages of working in horticultural retail is the bargains. Oh, so many bargains. As a result, I’ve been collecting plants for some time now. At one stage, the patio looked like a plant nursery. Now, it’s time to put these plants in the ground.
I decided on graduations of flower and leaf colour. Putting that into practice has been less easy than typing it, as I already had the majority of the plants before making that decision! The right-hand bed was the first to be dug out. We used a turf stripper to slice off a thick layer of turf, and over a ton of topsoil was dug into the already very loamy soil we found lurking under the turf. A great start. I sorted the plants into colour. On the right-hand side, as you walk down the path, I wanted graduations of blues, purples and whites. Here’s the bed in early Spring (the rest of the garden is untouched), and here’s the full plant list for the right-hand herbaceous bed.
Looks pretty uninspiring, huh?
Mentha (common mint)
Melissa officinalis (Lemon Balm)
Hosta ‘Wedgewood Blue’
Thyme x citridoris ‘Aureus’
Lilium longiflorum (Easter Lilly; Tree Lily)
Geranium somobor ‘Mourning Widow’
Pulmonaria ‘Sissinghurst White’
Pieris japonica ‘Flaming Silver’
Hesperis matronalis var. albiflora (sweet rocket)
Delphinium ‘King Arthur’
Aquilega ‘Blue Barlow’
Salvia nemorosa ‘Ostfriesland’ x 2
Acanthus spinosus (Bear’s Breeches)
Carex ‘Ice Dance’ x 3
Cornus alba elegantissima x 2
Penstemon ‘Electric Blue’
Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’
Alcaea (Hollyhock) – White
Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Nivalis’
Philadelphus ‘Belle Etoile’
Dianthus ‘Grenadin White’
Lupinus ‘Gallery White’
Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’
Pulmonaria longifolia ‘Diane Clare’
Aquilega ‘Black Barlow’
Geranium ‘Hocus Pocus’
Cornus alba elegantissima
Philadelphus maculatus ‘Sweet Clare’
They are mostly blues and whites, with some variations on purples (lilacs and deeper purples). Once these plants have grown and spread a little, and merged slightly into each other, it should create a natural and pleasing effect using colour and texture, and varying heights in the border.